Q: I wonder if you’d be able to give me some free advice?

I have a 1981 Yamaha XS1100, which I use to go to work everyday. But recently it’s started to develop an untraceable weave. I say this because I’ve fitted a new front tyre, checked the headstock bearings and the front and rear wheel bearings as well, all seem OK and smooth. 

The rear tyre is relatively new as well.

So what else could I have a look at because my Yamaha dealer doesn’t seem to be too interested with such an old bike and its problems?

Thanks for your reply in advance…

Corbus Ottens

A: All of our advice is always free to everyone, so let’s see if we can help with this.

From what you’ve just told us it can only now be one thing, and they’re the needle-roller bearings situated inside the swing-arm, where it bolts into the frame.

They are prone to coming loose over time, so try to ‘re-torque’ them to the correct settings first; you’ll easily find the figures for them on the Net.

If that doesn’t work, it might pay to take out the entire swing-arm assembly and replace the needle-roller bearing cages. Seeing as the bike is from the early eighties it will probably need doing anyway. 

It’s not too hard a job either. That should stop the weave if everything else, as you say, is in good working order.

Q: Hello there Noddy, I have a question for you, mate:

I’ve just bought my dream bike after saving up for the past few years because I hate being ripped off by finance companies. Anyway…

It’s a bright red 2005 Honda VFR800 with only 15,000kms on the clock. 

I gave the bike a good clean when I got it and noticed the chain needs to be tensioned. It looked a bit complicated to me so I took it to my Honda dealer. They said it needs a special tool, which of course, only they have, and therefore it will cost R200 for them to tension and oil/ lube the chain. So after much swearing I left the premises.

So, how would you guys tension the chain on my bike and do I really need some kind of ‘special’ tool? Urgently looking forward to your response.

Marc Collinson      Richards Bay (Durban)

A: The special tool you mentioned is used to adjust the eccentric cam device situated inside the rear wheel hub, which can easily be turned to adjust the chain once the two pinch bolts on the swing-arm have been loosened.

If you try to ‘tap’ around this adjustment ring with a punch/chisel for example, which some people do, you could cause severe damage, so I’d stay away from that antic.

But this ‘special’ tool, which is shaped like a ‘C-spanner’ with two lugs, is part of the original tool kit. So if you don’t have one under the seat it might pay to track one down from a breaker’s yard for example, because this tool tends to fit all Hondas with a single-sided swing-arm.

If you go on to the Internet and type in VRF800 tool-kit images you’ll see the tool I’m talking about. I’m sure it can’t be too expensive to buy one either. Then you’ll be able to do it all yourself and not have to go to that dealer again.

Q: I’m riding around on, and have done since I bought it new, a 2005 Yamaha XT660. But over the past few months it seems to be losing power, and therefore a little sluggish, which is becoming annoying.

Therefore I would like to check the compression, but seeing as I live on a farm 160km north of Gaborone in Botswana, it’s a bit difficult. 

So is there any way I can check the compression, which you might know of, without using a proper compression tester?

Your advice will be greatly appreciated, Noddy.

Keith Collingswood    Botswana

A: You will have to find a proper compression/leak down tester to do the job properly, because it will show the ‘blow-by’ percentage loss, if any, through the inlet and exhaust valves and the piston rings.

But for a quick ‘farm test’ you could put an airline from a compressor into the spark plug hole, once removed. If you get a good seal and the piston must be at T.D.C. (top dead center), you could possibly listen for air coming from the air-box (inlet valve), or from the end of the exhaust (exhaust valve), and remove the oil filler plug and then listen to air coming from the crankcases (piston rings).

This is only a rough guideline, but if you have severe damage in any of these three areas it will tell you where the problem lies. 

Definitely worth a try before you endure a long drive though…

Q: I was wondering if you guys could help me with a query regarding my old two-stroke bike? It’s a Suzuki GT550 three-cylinder, which I believe to be from 1977/78.

It’s only covered 56,000km during its life and normally it runs fine. But recently, for some reason, it’s just stopped firing on the middle cylinder.

I put in new spark plugs, which made no difference, so I decided to look inside the points/timing cover. It seems to have some sort of aftermarket system in there because it no longer has a points ignition, which I understand was the standard set up.

So could you please tell me which direction I should be going next, surely it can’t be a big problem because this engine is basically simple compared to today’s stuff?

Corbus Smitt     Welkom

A: You didn’t mention if there were a spark, so I’d check that out first by just swapping around the coils, if there isn’t. The carbs can also cause problems, so it might pay to clean them out and check the internals, if you haven’t already? It could also be the internal (labyrinth) seals that separate the cylinders inside the crankcase.

But I would say it’s more than likely the ignition system you’ve described. I would just replace the whole unit because parts are cheap for this bike and you’ll still be able to get genuine parts from your Suzuki dealer in SA.

I did a quick search on the net and found a complete ignition replacement (new), for a mere $15. It was on www.genuinemotorcycleparts.com - so try that out, and they have many more parts for your bike as well, if you need them?